SLO Down On The SLO Coast
Welcome back to “As I See It”. A bit of time has passed since our last get together, as life has kept me other wise occupied. So glad to be back.
The words and photos for this piece were gathered over multiple trips down to the San Luis Obispo coast, in Central California.
As I sat in retrospect after the first trip, I decided that I had not seen and photographed enough. In actuality, I mostly just wanted to go back down for another hit of the SLO coast.
My friend Brenda, who I have written about before, lived in these parts. And passed in these parts. My soul needed some time in that place, with her energetic imprint.
To spew some facts, for a moment, San Luis Obispo county is bordered by Monterey County to the north, Santa Barbara county to the south and Kern County to the east. Morro Bay is approximately in the center of the county, on the coast. With the understanding that all mileage and driving time is approximate, Morro Bay is 200 miles from Santa Monica and has a driving time of three and a half hours. Morro Bay is 230 miles from San Francisco, with a driving time of three hours and 45 minutes, making the SLO coast a perfect short distance get away from both the Los Angles area, and the San Francisco Bay Area. Folks from the Central Valley make their way over to the SLO coast, especially in the summer time, when temperatures regularly hit above 100* in the valley. Both Fresno and Bakersfield are 140 miles away, with travel times of two and a half hours.
Of towns on the coast, Morro Bay has the largest population with 10,000+ folks. Harmony has the smallest population with 18 folks.
Starting in the northern part of the county, lies San Simeon, population approximately 300. San Simeon is famous for being the home to the Hearst Castle. William Randolph Hearst was a publishing tycoon and politician. He was well known for his style of journalism, commonly known as “yellow journalism” . Yellow journalism is a style of journalism that is based upon sensationalism and crude exaggeration. Hearst used that type of journalism as a means to having marijuana made illegal in the US with the 1937 Marihuana Tax Act. He wanted his timber based paper empire to use paper pulp for his newspapers, as opposed to hemp fiber. His newspapers reported such things as when “negro” men smoked marijuana they raped white women.
With that being said, I would imagine that there was no shortage of marijuana, or other party favors, at the many parties thrown for the richest and most famous folks of the time. In fact, Xanadu, the estate portrayed in the Orson Welles cinematic classic, “Citizen Kane”, was inspired by the Hearst Castle.
But, back to the castle….Construction started in 1919 and lasted 28 years, until 1947. There are 42 bedrooms, 61 bathrooms, 19 sitting rooms, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a movie theatre, an airfield, 127 acres of gardens, and at the time, the largest private zoo.
Hearst worked with world famous architect, Julia Morgan, who was the first female architect licensed in California.
The surrounding property of 82,000 acres is the Hearst Ranch, still owned and operated as a cattle ranch by the Hearst Corporation. They are the largest purveyor of beef to Whole Foods. Including the acreage of Hearst Ranch, the total property encompasses 250,000 acres.
In 1957, Hearst Castle was donated to the State of California. It officially opened to the public in 1958. The property is too large to be seen in one tour, so there are presently eight different tours that can be taken, with prices ranging from $35-$110.
I had considered taking one of those tours, but I couldn’t bring myself to pay money (even though it goes to the State of California), to see the grotesque opulence that, to this day, we are fighting against.
As we follow Hwy 1 south, we come to Cambria, population approximately 6,000. How I love Cambria. It is a small, cozy and friendly town, divided into the East Village and the West Village. The main street in both of the villages is lined with small shops, art galleries and restaurants. There is no big box shopping to be done in Cambria. One must drive 45 minutes to San Luis Obispo to come upon any of the bigger, more well known corporate places of business.
Moonstone Beach is a one mile stretch of coastline in Cambria. Moonstone Beach Dr runs along the shore with sand and ocean on one side, and quaint inns and restaurants on the other side. It is a romantic vision as couples walk along the small boardwalk and sit on benches, playing guitars and watching the sunset. The sand is lined with lean-tos, built from huge pieces of driftwood, that cover the beach.
I had a delicious dinner at Linn’s, where there is a focus on the olallieberry. This was an undiscovered berry to me. A most delicious cross between a raspberry and a blackberry. For dessert I had a white cake with olallieberry filling. Near the restaurant is Linn’s Easy As Pie Cafe, where you can buy all things olallieberry. Muffins, cake, pie, curd, honey, dressing, butter, vinegar, glaze, syrup, tea, lemonade, taffy, licorice, bark, gummy bears and truffles. Well worth a visit.
If it’s fairies that you’re looking for, stop in at Spellbound Herbs. They have a lovely fairy garden in the back, where you will find real fairies. After your visit with those ethereal beings, you can buy your incense, oils, teas, books, lotions and potions, and so much more. It is located in one of the oldest buildings in Cambria, a 1870’s homestead.
As a crocheter, I was interested in checking out the local yarn shop, Ball and Skein. What a great shop, with lots of beautiful (and expensive) yarn. The women who worked there were friendly and helpful, and best of all, they had a free library for yarn out in front. I didn’t walk away empty handed.
I had an amazing experience at Casa De Oro Jewelry, where the owner, Heather, went over and beyond with her time and energy helping me with some jewelry repair.
I could go on. Every shop that I stopped in, every person that I chatted with was friendly, inviting and authentic.
Harmony is the next town south. Harmony is one of the coolest towns I have ever visited. With a population of 18, Harmony is a half a block long, located at the end of a road, behind some cattle fencing. There is a pottery shop, a coffee place, a glass blowing shop, a post office, one food truck, one ice cream truck in an old school milk truck, and a 420 friendly wedding chapel. On the outskirts of the town is a winery, Harmony Cellars.
Every time that I visited, there were tourists about. One lovely woman that I met, Avalon, is a potter, who sells her art up and down the coast. Her business card states that she is a “Professional Fun-Haver”. We chatted for a bit, then off I went to shoot more images, and she went for a cup of coffee.
As we continue south on Hwy 1 we come to the town of Cayucos, population approximately 3,000. This is a laid back surf town, with many of the local businesses catering to surfers. No big box businesses to be found there. The surfers that I saw in my visits to Cayucos were not your stereotypical young blonde surfer dudes and dudettes from Southern California. These were folks who seemingly had been surfing for decades.
One day I stopped for lunch at Mosey’s Burgers, a tiny place across the walkway from the sand. They have a basic menu, consisting of smash burgers, chicken or steak tacos, and fries. The only seating was two tables out in front. As those tables were taken, I took my delicious steak taco out to the beach, placing it on a fence post, while I stood eating.
I decided that this place would get a shout out in my blog, so I quickly turned to see the name of the business.
Seconds later I turned back to find a seagull upon the fence post, eating my taco. That brazen bird!
I have yet to get into the Brown Butter Cookie Company, as it was closed when I stopped by. It’s definitely on my list for my next visit.
Further south, we find Morro Bay. You can spot Morro Bay by it’s proximity to Morro Rock, in Morro Bay Harbor, lest you forget that we’re in Morro Bay.
With a population of approximately 10,000 people, Morro Bay is the largest populated town on the SLO coast. Though there are no “big box” retail stores, there are plenty of local businesses located along the shore line, and within the downtown area. There are two dispensaries, a movie theatre, and many restaurants and venues for live music. I had a delicious lunch at The Galley Seafood Grill and Bar, over looking Morro Bay Harbor. Even more delicious was my server, who shared with me her preference in dispensaries. She drew me a map, on the back of one of her order tickets, of how to get to them both, and how to get to the closest monarch butterfly sanctuary.
Out the window where I lunched, Morro Rock rises 576 feet above the ocean in Morro Bay harbor. It is a volcanic plug that dates back 23 million + years. It is an international sacred site and a habitat for peregrine falcons. Climbing it is prohibited, though one can drive to it’s base. There is plenty of hiking to do in the surrounding areas.
Aside from the peregrine falcons, there is much wildlife to see in Morro Bay. You can expect to see otters close to shore, as well as sea lions and many types of sea birds. There’s plenty of whale watching excursions, if that speaks to you. Monarch butterflies overwinter in Morro Bay and the surrounding areas. They can be found hanging out in the groves of eucalyptus trees, between October and March.
As we head south from Morro Bay, we also head east, as Hwy 1 takes us away from the coast to meet Hwy 101, where our trip continues southward.
Now, if I may digress for a moment, Montana de Oro, an 8,000 acre ocean side recreation area, rises between Morro Bay and Avila Beach. When looking at a map, it appears that Pecho Valley Rd runs through the area, but according to the map, it ends before one reaches Avila Beach. Maybe one day I will venture into the unknown and see if there is a way to drive along the coast between Morro Bay and Avila Beach. Until then, it’s The 101 for me.
Back to The 101 south, it doesn’t take long before one comes to the off ramp for Avila Beach. Avila Beach is another small beach community with a population of approximately 1,400 people. Located in the northern part of Avila Beach is Diablo Canyon Power Plant, California’s last operating nuclear power plant. It is by far the largest employer in the area with approximately 1,400 employees.
While it was a quiet day when I was there, I could feel the history of countless protests and thousands of arrests. No Nukes.
Avila Beach is also the home to the Central Coast Aquarium, a small aquarium, well worth the $15 admission fee.
Up the street from the aquarium is the Avila Beach Promenade. The promenade is a two block car free section in the heart of Avila Beach. Along with restaurants, art galleries and local shops, you will find the Avila Pier. In the summer, there is the weekly Avila Beach Farmer’s Market, and the weekly Art On The Beach, where one can buy offerings from local farmers and local artists.
Many years ago, I stayed at the Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort and Spa. Part of the the draw to stay in that beautiful location is that each room has a deck with a hot tub, featuring water from the natural mineral springs. Smells so stinky, feels so amazing.
A short distance southward we find Pismo Beach, population approximately 8,000. Though it has a lesser population than Morro Bay, to me it feels like a bigger town. In the northern part of town, we find a stretch of amazing million dollar homes, with amazing million dollar views. Along side of them are several three and four star hotels and restaurants. (Shout out to The Cliffs Hotel & Spa and Inn At The Cove).
In the Shell Beach area of Pismo Beach you will find Dinosaur Cave Park. It is an 11 acre park that sits atop a bluff. Walking trails, an amphitheater and a playground live here year round, while Art In The Park is a monthly event that happens from April through the beginning of December.
As with the other towns on the SLO coast, there are no big box stores, but Pismo Beach does have the Pismo Beach Premium Outlets. Among other outlet stores, you will find the Calvin Klein, Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, Kate Spade and Skechers outlet stores.
If what you’re seeking is Pismo Beach swag, look no farther than Pomeroy Ave. The road that leads to the Pier Plaza, Pomeroy Ave is lined with local swag shops, where you can get all things Pismo Beach. Magnets, shirt, hoodies, shot glasses, hats, key chains. The list goes on.
Splash Cafe is a local landmark, with a sign in the window boasting award winning chowder for 18 years.. When I was there, the line down the street spoke louder than the sign in the window. Across the street you’ll find Hot Shots Billiards & Family Entertainment. They’re not messing around, with 14 pool tables, air hockey tables and a game arcade. If that’s not enough fun for you, a few doors down you’ll find Pismo Bowl, an eight lane bowling alley.
At the end of Pomeroy Ave is the Pier Plaza. You are immediately greeted by seven foot tall letters, that light up neon at night, spelling out Pismo Beach. And as you have probably guessed, this is the location of the pier.
I took two trips to the Pismo Monarch Butterfly Grove and neither was particularly successful. According to the information at the butterfly grove, the season for the butterflies is from October to March. Initially I went in early November, but neither high nor low, was there a butterfly to be seen. I returned in February, and was told that all the females had already flown on, leaving some males to live out their golden years, or days, as it were.
I did learn that when they are hanging out there, they are only in their clusters when the temperature is below 55*, otherwise they are out and about in their hood. Making time and baby butterflies.
Three miles south of Pismo Beach is Oceano Dunes State Vehicular Recreation Area. Oceano Dunes is one of the most expansive coastal dunes in California. The beach stretches for 18 miles. It is also the only beach in California where one can drive and/or camp on the beach, tides allowing.
If you don’t have your own ATV or dune buggy, there are numerous place to rent them. If driving on the beach is not your deal, but being driven on the beach is, you have an option there. Pacific Adventure Tours and Xtreme Hummer Adventures will have you holding on for dear life, as they race over the dunes, driving in all directions. I think I’ll sit that one out.
The last stop on this excellent adventure brings us to Nipomo. Though Nipomo is not a coastal town, it is located close the the coast, and it has a loofah farm. Yes, a loofah farm. The Luffa Farm. Because luffas, or loofahs, or loofas, are grown on vines. How old were you when you learned that? I was 49.
Loofahs are gourds from the cucumber family. When they are young they are edible. As they mature, they are used to make sponges, what we know as loofahs.
At The Luffa Farm, you can tour their greenhouses, and see the loofah plants in all different stages of development. In their cozy gift shop, you can buy soaps, bubble baths, foot soaks, salt soaks, body butters, and of course, loofahs of all sizes. All items that make for great gifts.
This trip on the San Luis Obispo coast spans approximately 60 miles of coastline, from San Simeon in the north to Nipomo to the south. Depending on traffic, the drive takes about an hour, though it can also take days, if exploration of the SLO coast is what you’re doing. And I encourage you to do just that.